Guatemala: A Quick Guide to Lake Atitlán

Ah Lake Atitlán, it’s like the Liquorice Allsorts of Guatemala, there’s something there for everyone.

There are numerous towns on the lake, all easily accessible from each other by Lancha (speedboat) for a fee, and each little town has a rep for catering to a particular kind of traveller, which is what makes Atitlán such a special place.

There’s San Pedro, for the budget backpackers, San Marcos for those in search of a more spiritual experience (or dreadlocks), San Juan for fancy hotels and restaurants or Panajachel, which has a beautiful sunset and is the main port and gateway to the rest (just not as nice).

I highly recommend you put Lake Atitlán VERY high on your Guatemalan to-do list, you won’t regret it.

Travel from Antigua to Lake Atitlán:

You can make your way to Panajachel and get a lancha from there to your desired destination. We wanted to head straight to San Pedro from Antigua, and there are numerous tour agencies that offer a shuttle that goes through Panajachel to San Pedro for 90 quetzal (€10), so that was the best for us! It’s a 6 a.m. pick-up and a beautifully scenic 3.5-hour drive… Honestly, have the camera ready.

You can contact Travel Agency Guadalupe for 90Q per person to arrange transport: Whatsapp +50241433324. 

From the pier, you can take the lanchas for 30Q return or 20Q one way.

To research both transport prices and schedules, check out Bookaway.com or use the search below

Accommodation in Lake Atitlán:

It’s worth noting that, as most times in Central America, there’s no need to book accommodation in advance as there’s a load of hostels available and you can always haggle for a better deal.

Panajachel:

Walk from the dock, take the first left, and follow the main road right into the town. You’ll pass Hostel Domingo or Posada Monte Rosa Hotel, both have good rates. 70 Quetzal a night. However, in Posada Monte Rosa, the lady closes and locks the door at 11 pm, which is a touch inconvenient, i,f like u,s you only go out to eat at about 10 pm.

San Pedro:

Casa Elena is the BEST place to stay at only 60Q pp for shared bathroom. 150Q for private bathroom. Ran by a beautiful family with a kitchen, hand-washing facilities, rooftop views and private access to the lake.

Next door is the Cultural Spanish School, where we enjoyed our week-long 1:1 Spanish lessons (kids’ lessons also available). The teachers are fantastic and tailor the lessons to your level. You can do an hour, day, week or full on immersive lessons where you stay with a local family.

Things To Do in Lake Atitlán:

Panajachel:

Watch the sunset from the pier:

Panajachel has the most beautiful sunset of all the little towns. I know, I know, there should be a picture… but sometimes you just gotta put down the camera and enjoy the moment, otherwise what’s the point!

Katie, on the other hand, was snapping away. So here’s your picture:

San Pedro:

Eat All The Food:

While it has similar prices to the restaurants along the strip, Jakuu is a fab little family-owned find that serves massive portions here, and the food had us coming back for more. It’s a perfect spot to nurse a hangover or post-sunrise hike. See location here

Do not miss the doblados with papa and topped with everything from beetroot to carrot, guac and cabbage. The lovely lady serves them from sa treet cart only in the evenings from 5:30pm-7pm, serving a portion (2) for 15Q. You can find her here

Another mouth-watering option is Pupusas Salvadores Sonia’s along the strip. A gigantic pupusa costs 25Q, but with a ‘help yourself’ side salad. Delicious. Oh, and there are vegetarian options!

We also loved Comedor Rosita, also along the strip, across from Johanna shop. Extremely good food and so affordable, for meat and fish dishes expect to pay 25Q per dish (very popular with locals!)

For breakfast and lunch, head to Comedor Central. Our kiddo loved the pancakes while we indulged in the Typico for 20Q, including coffee. Location is here

Finally, we have to give a shout-out to Coffee Espresso en San Pedro La Laguna. We were big fans of their8Q coffee for 8Q and delicious, (not too sweet) Banana bread for 8Q.

Climb Tostro Maya (The Indian Nose):

No matter what town you stay on Lake Atitlan, you will be inundated with mentions to hike Rostro Maya for sunrise (more popularly advertised as the Indian Nose hike).

And while that clear, cloudless morning is never guaranteed, this short, relatively easy and affordable hike is absolutely worth your time!

We originally wanted to do this without a tour. And many do. But with research comes whispers of local bandits who tend to rob tourists along the trail. Don’t get us wrong, bandits and robberies are a fact around the lake, but in this case, these ‘bandits’ are instead local farmers, strapped with machetes, who approach foreign visitors demanding payment to cross their private land, which is fair enough!

Considering these ‘fees’ can add up, with no fixed rate, it is much cheaper and less stressful to just book that group trip. Especially when it costs roughly 100-150Q (€10-€17).

On great recommendation, we booked a slightly more expensive tour (who even are we?!) with a local guide called Henry. Mainly because his tour included a 45min history lesson about the formation of the lake, local Mayan culture, with a sprinkle of folklore and facts, such as why some locals dislike and find the term ‘Indian Nose’ offensive.

At 4am we were collected from our accommodation and brought to the trailhead in Santa Clara. Head torches on, an hour climb treated us to a silhouette of volcanoes, including the erupting Volcan Fuego.

It was a clear, starry night sky. We sat at a quiet mirador, shooting stars kept us wishing, while Henry kept us entertained. A wealth of information from a very hilarious and cocky character (he will quiz you, so pay attention).

Just before the sun reared, we headed to the summit to join other groups. And with a cup of tea/coffee and some local sweet bread in hand, we welcomed the day. Followed by a fun photoshoot with a mind-blowing background.

This tour was 150Q (Henry’s Whatsapp: +502 5836 7172), but roam the streets, and book the night before to bag a trip for as little as 80-100Q! (It may not include a history lesson, though!)

Visit the Women’s Collective

Learn how to weave using traditional methods. You pay for the class and leave with items you made. We highly recommend visiting:

• Atitlan Women’s Weavers
• Artextiles San Pedro
• Teixchel Weaving Association

Walk/bike between the towns (carefully):

There are walking/biking trails between (most) of the towns. Apparently, they are quite amazing, but speak to a local first, as they are a bit isolated, and there have been instances of muggings. The usual rule applies… head on a swivel and don’t bring anything you aren’t prepared to lose.

Others:

• Visit and shop in the local market that runs from early morning until around 1 pm. There will be some stalls, but it’s busiest in the morning. Location here
• Chill at Central Park, grab a coffee, juice or ice-cream and people watch
• Get lost down the laneways, discover new food and local artisanal markets.
• Rent a kayak from anywhere along the lake and head out to enjoy a different perspective! For decent rental rates, pop down the stairs next tothe Sababa restaurant to rent from a local! They also have nice coffee and ice cream places down here!

San Marcos:

Not only is it a dream to wander around and explore this very laid back, lazy village, if you happen to visit the lake on a Friday, but we also suggest popping up to Eagles Nest for a community day and INCREDIBLE 360 views (free only on Fridays)

San Juan:

Again, you cannot go wrong with a ‘no plan’ wander. Find your favourite lunch spot, enjoy walking down the colourful umbrella street, explore the markets and stop by the community hall to watch families and kids play sports (great for families as your kiddo can join in if you ask!). If you have time, take a quick walk up to Mirador Kaqasiiwaan.

Either way, make sure you visit the local bee farm, the tour, the guides, the information, and the products. It’s a brilliant way to spend an hour! Not to miss!

How To Travel Between The Towns:

There’s a lancha service that operates between the towns. There’s no real timetable as such; the lanchas tend to leave when they’re full, could be on time, could be on Central American time. Strap your patience on and take in the surrounding beauty. Prices range from 25q to 50q depending on origin and destination.

As always, should you need more info or more detail, drop me a message and I’ll be glad to oblige. Peace out.