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Guatemala: Loving Life on Lake Atitlán

Ah Lake Atitlán, it’s like the Liquorice Allsorts of Guatemala, there’s something there for everyone.

There are numerous towns on the lake all easily accessible from each other by Lancha (speedboat) for a fee, and each little town has a rep for catering to a particular kind of traveller, which is what makes Atitlán such a special place.

There’s San Pedro, for the budget backpackers and party animals, San Marcos for those in search of a more spiritual experience (or dreadlocks), San Juan for fancy hotels and restaurants or Panajachel, which has a beautiful sunset and is the main port and gateway to the rest (just not as nice).

Each holds its own style and charm, but only one holds our hearts, The fabulous San Pedro del la Laguna. We originally had planned to do loads here at the lake, but in the end, we arrived, without realising, the day before St. Paddy’s Day and of course, there was a massive Paddy’s Day celebration planned. We bumped into a shedload of Irish people, and our couple of activity-filled days turned into a few days on the absolute piss and a couple of days hungover in hammocks in the sun. But sure it’s nice to let off a bit of steam every now and again also, so we embraced these days as a part of the experience, and well… who wants to scale a volcano with the mother of all hangovers?

I highly recommend you put Lake Atitlán VERY high on your Guatemalan to-do list, you won’t regret it.

Table of Contents

Travel from Antigua to Lake Atitlán:

You can make your way to Panajachel and get a lancha from there to your desired destination. We wanted to head straight to San Pedro from Antigua and there are numerous tour agencies that offer a shuttle that goes through Panajachel to San Pedro for 70 quetzal (€8.50) so that was the best for us! It’s a 6 a.m. pick-up and a beautifully scenic 3.5-hour drive… Honestly, have the camera ready.

 To book your transport online, check out

Accommodation in Lake Atitlán:

It’s worth noting that, as most times in Central America, there’s no need to book accommodation in advance as there’s a load of hostels available and you can always haggle for a better deal.


Walk from the dock take the first left, and follow the main road right into the town. You’ll pass Hostel Domingo or Posada Monte Rosa Hotel – both have good rates. 70 Quetzal (€8.50) a night. However, in Posada Monte Rosa, the lady closes and locks the door at 11 pm which is a touch inconvenient, if like us you only go out to eat at about 10 pm.

Guatemala: Loving Life on Lake Atitlán
Ah the Town of St. Peter on the eve of St. Patrick.

San Pedro:

We stayed in the Casa Rolando at 50 quetzal (€6) per night for a private, with its own bath. It’s a cheaper, quieter option for those who want the Hostel Fe (75 quetzal/ €9 per night for a private) party vibe but also the option to abandon the madness in favour of sleep. There’s no need to pay more than 50 Quetzal for a room because there’s an abundance of hostels all competing for business, so haggle, haggle, haggle!!


Things To Do in Lake Atitlán:


Watch the sunset from the pier:

Panajachel has the most beautiful sunset of all the little towns. I know, I know, there should be a picture… but sometimes you just gotta put down the camera and enjoy the moment, otherwise what’s the point!

Katie, on the other hand, was snapping away. So here’s your picture:

The Ungraceful Guide: Lake Atitlán Guatemala

San Pedro:

Have a pint in The Wild Rover:

Guatemala: Loving Life on Lake Atitlán

Sure what could possibly go wrong?

That’s right, San Pedro has an Irish bar, run by a proper Irish lad by the name of Paul. Pop in for a pint of Guinness or a Chin wag, I’m sure he’d love to see you.

Go to a quiz night in Hostel Fe:

The quiz night in Hostel Fe is epic!! Apart from a $200 cash prize (which might as well be a couple of thousand in Guatemala) for the winner. It features a heavy dose of banter and some banging tunes, with plenty of drink promos to keep the evening moving fluidly (get it??)

Eat breakfast at The Blue Parrot:

After a night in the Rover or Fe, nothing will sort you out quicker than the beauty of a (sort of) fry-up in the blue parrot. And at 25q (€3) sure you can’t go wrong.

Climb The Indian Nose:

At this point, if you’re not all volcanoes out, why not brave all 9,000ft of the impressive Indian’s nose? Stunning views and a bout of breathlessness await.

Catch a rock show with Sonido Abusivo:

There are a staggering amount of bands in this tiny little town, but head and shoulders above the rest are the non-stop rocking Sonido Abusivo. We watched their full set twice and still wanted more. DO NOT go to San Pedro without seeing them.

Walk/bike between the towns (carefully):

There are walking/biking trails between (most) of the towns. Apparently, they are quite amazing, but speak to a local first as they are a bit isolated and there have been instances of muggings. The usual rule applies… head on a swivel and don’t bring anything you aren’t prepared to lose.

Have a quesadilla at Super Tacos la Mexicana:

18 Quetzal (€2) for the tastiest quesadilla I’ve ever had. Big, too. ‘Nuff said.

Split a brunch at the Barrio pub:

The Barrio does an amazing 3/4 course brunch for 49 Quetzal which is a little on the pricey side for Guatemala.. (well it’s under €6) but they’re sound and they let me and Katie split one, For this reason alone I’d go back. Now tack on the fact that it was soooo good. And has free tea/coffee with it. Deal.

San Marcos:

Unfortunately, we didn’t make it to San Marcos, (damn you St. Paddy’s Day) but this apparently is the place to go for yoga, meditation and spirituality retreats. The people we spoke to who made it there had nothing but good things to say.

San Juan:

Again, we missed out here due to the patron saint of being hungover, but there are some beautiful scenic walks between San Pedro and here. Also apparently when you get there this town is the most Original G of all the towns. Remaining largely untouched by tourism, San Juan will give you a glimpse into old-school Guatemalan life.

Guatemala: Loving Life on Lake Atitlán
Damn you St. Paddy’s day, but you were totally worth it.

How To Travel Between The Towns:

There’s a lancha service that operates between the towns. There’s no real timetable as such, the lanchas tend to leave when they’re full, could be on time, could be on Central American time. Strap your patience on and take in the surrounding beauty. Prices range from 25q to 50q (€3-6) depending on origin and destination.

So there you have it. Lake Atitlán for me was one of THE highlights in Guatemala, and not just because we got very, very drunk and then lay in a hammock by a stunning clear water lake. Although I can think of worse ways to spend Paddy’s weekend.

As always, should you need more info or more detail, drop me a message and I’ll be glad to oblige. Peace out.



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2 Responses

  1. Thank you for your comments about Sonido Abusivo! we appreciate you took the time to write about our band! good vibes.

    1. You guys made our time there! What a great St. Patrick’s Day! We still want to use one of your songs for our video, if possible? Keep rocking lads!

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